Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Line Obsession

Black September

The Line

Nova Express

All 5-star crack climbs. All 5.9-5.9+.
It's all that i can think about. I constantly molest other climbers for valuable beta I've heard a dozen times before. Just look. You'll salivate too!

    Black September.

Beautiful hand jams up a steep splitter crack with good rests up high right before a powerful roof-like crux out of a chimney. Man, it's sweet.

The Line

A sweet, solid crack that splits the East Wall at Lovers Leap from top to bottom. Three challenging pitches of crack, face and roof-pulling moves. It's wild! I never dreamed of doing the route back last year when I first visited the Leap to climb the East Wall. I hear you get thin protection at the start and the crux (the hardest move) is 15 feet off the deck. I hate some of the sparsely protected starts at the Leap (e.g. Bears Reach).
                                                          Nova Express

When I first visited Donner summit to climb, I tried to find my way up this beautiful crack and failed. Miserably. Little did I realize that my fledgling back then would amount to an all out need to redeem myself from those days. Thanks to the trip to Indian Creek, I've got the skills and the know how to get up this guy just fine. I hope.

These are my big goals for the YEAR.

If I can land em before the snow falls, I'm fairly certain I'll be climbing .10's (or .9's in the Valley) by next year.

P.S. I led Black September last Tuesday, the 19th. Two more to go!

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