The Line
Nova Express
All 5-star crack climbs. All 5.9-5.9+.
It's all that i can think about. I constantly molest other climbers for valuable beta I've heard a dozen times before. Just look. You'll salivate too!
Black September.
Beautiful hand jams up a steep splitter crack with good rests up high right before a powerful roof-like crux out of a chimney. Man, it's sweet.
The Line
A sweet, solid crack that splits the East Wall at Lovers Leap from top to bottom. Three challenging pitches of crack, face and roof-pulling moves. It's wild! I never dreamed of doing the route back last year when I first visited the Leap to climb the East Wall. I hear you get thin protection at the start and the crux (the hardest move) is 15 feet off the deck. I hate some of the sparsely protected starts at the Leap (e.g. Bears Reach).
Nova Express
Damn.
These are my big goals for the YEAR.
If I can land em before the snow falls, I'm fairly certain I'll be climbing .10's (or .9's in the Valley) by next year.
P.S. I led Black September last Tuesday, the 19th. Two more to go!
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